Toriyasa

The Chicken is in the Details.
After a long day of touring and sight-​seeing around Kyoto, my friend and I were dropped off in front of Toriyasa via taxi by our kind driver and tour guide. With our goodbyes said and done, we looked forward in eager anticipation to what was one of the most memorable meals on this recent trip.
The simple entry way of Toriyasa is a testament to its humble surroundings and environment. We were greeted by a friendly hostess, who kindly led us on path of wet rocks to a private room in the rear. She waited patiently as we removed our shoes before stepping into the spacious room. A long table was positioned by the window to allow us a view of the Kamo River and the pending construction of the restaurant’s seasonal service deck.
As our server began her preparations for the meal, my friend informed me that this would be the best chicken soup I’ve ever had. And he was absolutely right.
A small tray of assorted petite appetizers preceded the meal. One of these was the chicken liver, which I found to be absolutely delicious. In addition, we also ordered a side of chicken skin. Fresh from the fryer, the chicken skin should be eaten just with a pinch salt and spice.
Next, we were given a portion of the broth mixed with a raw egg. I found this small tasting of the broth just superb as its full of flavor. As the meal progressed, a total of four hot pot courses were served, with each one featuring a different part of the chicken (breast, leg, thigh, etc). To complement the chicken, cabbage, tofu, and mushrooms were also cooked and served.
Other than the broth, a very delectable ponzu sauce served. It was so good. Really good. So good in fact, that I almost drank the remaining sauce in my bowl. But, it’s a good thing I didn’t do that since our server continued to add vegetables and chicken to ponzu sauce throughout the meal.
The last course was a rice pudding, where the server added rice to the remaining broth along with a raw egg. This mixture doesn’t seem very appetizing, but it was the perfect ending to such an outstanding lunch.
A limited sake list is available as well.
The service was impeccable. Though the server spoke limited English, as the saying goes actions speak louder than words, and her actions spoke loud volumes that’s for sure. She was kind, polite, patient, and did her very best to explain about the meal, including the cooking preparations and ingredients/​meal components. She was most attentive throughout the meal from start to finish.
I honestly cringe at my limited knowledge of cooking and preparation as it hinders me from fully describing this incredible meal to fellow Unilocalers. But, please know that this was lunch was truly memorable if not extraordinary in its own right.
BOTTOM LINE: An unforgettable lunch and meal during my first visit to Japan.

Which came first, the chicken or the egg? At Toriyasa it doesn’t matter. Mr. Clucky is toast.
Through the first noren, greeted by a kimono clad hostess, through a «courtyard» of wet river rocks, a centuries old home with steep narrow staircases rising to small upper floors right out of an old samurai movie, then into a private tatami room overlooking the Kamo river. This is Toriyasa.
Toriyasa was opened in 1788, having garnered the status of a National Tangible Cultural Asset of Kyoto in 2004, and a Michelin star along the way. It has been in one family serving one dish continuously since that time; mizutaki (chicken soup).
Of course calling it a chicken soup is an gross understatement. The bones and meat of free ranged, organic chickens are cooked for three days yielding a white, collagen supercharged, heavily extracted broth. Simply put. This is the best chicken soup you will ever have.
The meal opens with a mixed assortment of single bites, the highlight is a whole chicken liver, served cold, cooked in a dashi and sweetened soy mixture. Amazing smooth texture and flavor ending in gentle mineral notes and a clean finish.
Do not pass on a side order of chicken skin. A dash of salt and shichimi brings the perfectly crisp skin to life. No residual oil, just thin, perfectly crisp sheets of skin.
Starters are followed by the first taste of the incredible soup mixed with a raw egg, so fresh, its deep orange yolk complements perfectly the deeply flavored broth. Simply seasoned with salt and shichimi. Phenomenal.
Four hot pot courses follow, each showcasing a different cut of the chicken (thigh, breast, leg, oyster) all with Chinese cabbage rolls, tofu, and thick Japanese green onion. Everything has a gentle flavor of chicken. While the chicken is fully cooked, it has a deep, free ranged flavor. A dipping sauce of homemade, yuzu based ponzu with more shichimi brightens the pallet as it rounds out each bite.
Finally the piece de resistance, zosui. More broth is added and reduced before the addition of rice and yet another über fresh egg. Simply outstanding. The dish showcases the intense flavor of the soup. Add any combination of the ponzu, shichimi, and salt to taste. The more you eat, the more the collagen coats the palate.
Fresh fruit ends the meal.
Small but very well chosen sake list. Reasonable prices.
Excellent service that includes cooking and serving every course.
Full course per person JPY 10,000. Additional dishes such as chicken skin, karaage, extra. Our meal for two ran JPY 38,000 inclusive of service (20 percent).
Very little English spoken. Credit cards accepted. Seven private tatami rooms for a maximum of 20 guest. Outdoor dining over the Kamo river from May through August. Reservations two months in advance.