Yamadaya

3 Michelin Star Usukifugu Yamadaya
臼杵ふぐ山田屋. This is a fugu restaurant and only 3 michelin star fugu specialty restaurant. «In season, tora fugu is delivered daily from Oita. Thick slices of fugu are served with homemade ponzu dipping sauce made from soy sauce and juicy citrus kabosu fruit harvested in Oita.»
The menu and food is kept at its absolutely simple yet executed perfectly and flawlessly.
The fugu sashimi is absolute marble as no other fish has this kind of chewy yet deep and flavorable texture.
It was a true Japanese chef harmony with a such a exclusive and rare ingredient. The fish is poisonous hence only very few certified fugu chef may handle this fish. Pretty much if you prepare this dish wrong, you can kill a person from its dangerous poison.
Would love to dine here again on my return trip to Tokyo. Bravo!

«That fish is poison.
Never trust an unlicensed chef and knife.
That fish is poison.»
As it was told to me by my friend, although the fugu blowfish contains lethal amounts of poison within its organs, chefs must be experienced and licensed to prepare this fish. Therefore, I had absolutely nothing to worry about, save my life. I truly didn’t know what to expect walking into the restaurant that fateful evening, but I am happy to say I enjoyed an exceptional dinner with outstanding service.
LOCATION: Sadly I’m not sure of which section or neighborhood its located in. I do want to share with my fellow Unilocalers to exercise caution as you’re descending the stairs to the restaurant. It can be slightly slippery when its raining (as it was the night we visited) as the staircase is not covered.
We were warmly greeted by the staff and shown to our seats at the counter. The counter area has five seats altogether, and since there was only two other people besides us, it was a very peaceful and intimate dining experience.
The entire meal was a tour de force in terms of presentation, skill, and variety of ingredients chosen. Being able to view the chef preparing the dishes, and carefully arranging the food on the plates was a veritable delight.
The meal began with appetizers and soup. Thanks to a menu provided by the staff, we were given a glimpse at the fantastic meal we were about to partake. The appetizer of bambooshoots, cabbage, scallops and marinated kombu was simple to start but full of flavor. The sake sauce was extraordinary to say the least. The Chinese cabbage soup with fried bread provided some warmth to the chilly evening. A perfect portion size and lovely start to the meal.
Our next dish was the fugu sashimi. The translucent fugu was neatly arranged in a circular pattern with a small mound of monkfish liver sitting atop. Now this was fugu just stripped and bare where one can just taste the freshness and admire the precision in preparation by the chef. The ponzu sauce adds some zest to the fish which I found very appealing.
The next dishes included the fugu roe, fugu teriyaki, and deep fried fugu, respectively.
The roe was warm and at first slightly difficult to eat. Many thanks to the chef for coming to the rescue in providing spoons. The roe has a creamy texture that can only be described as slightly denser than an egg yolk, but exhibits the same qualities when being punctured. I thought the fugu teriyaki was well prepared, and was not what I expected. The entirely boneless portion was quite delicious. Lastly, I had a somewhat battle with the bones concerning the deep fried fugu. Preparation was just right, and but its bones were mightier than its crunch. I tried with all my might it seems to gather the meat from any crevice I could find but the bones sadly got the best of me.
We were served the fugu hot pot next. I was quite shocked there were two generous servings of this course. After I finished the first bowl, I was taken aback that there was a second helping so to speak. The hot pot includes the bones, spine, fin, tail, and skin. The addition of the Chinese cabbage, leek, shiitake mushrooms, carrots, chrysanthemum leaves, and tofu all add to flavor of this amazing and incredible dish. This was my favorite course of the evening. I loved it.
The last fugu dish of the evening was the rice porridge. Broth from the fugu hot pot is mixed together with rice to produce a gelatinous and creamy dish. Japanese pickles served to compliment the dish to cleanse the palette between bites.
Dessert was simple and sweet. A mochi filled with azuki beans and mascarpone cheese. A sweet finish if there ever was one.
SERVICE: Simply Outstanding. The staff was very attentive and polite. I felt very welcomed from the moment I stepped foot into the restaurant until it was time to depart. Incredible and exceptional service overall.
NOTE: Throughout the entire meal we chose various sake to complement the dishes being serviced. I thought it was very creative that each sake we ordered (I think three total) was served in different/​unique flasks, and we were given distinct drinking cups for each sake as well.
side NOTE: Limited English spoken by the servers.
BOTTOM LINE: An very outstanding and memorable meal. A true once in a lifetime experience for sure.

I ate fugu and I’m still here to tell the tale!
The pinnacle of fugu experiences bar none. Usukifugu Yamadaya, a Michelin three, is as flawless as they come. Like all other Michelin three restaurants, this is a perfect dining experience. From the quality and presentation of the food through the progression of courses and perfect sake pairings, and service in a beautiful ambiance, this is a true once in a lifetime experience.
Fugu; it’s translucent flesh, firm in texture, mild aroma of the fish with a gentle sweetness and cleanest of oceanic finishes. Cooked, the texture becomes tight and chewy with heavy amounts of gelatin. Boiled, it releases its fat and becomes wonderfully aromatic.
Straight to it, opt for the full course (JPY 30,000).
The experience begins with a seasonal starter. For this event, alternating steamed takenoko, Chinese cabbage, raw scallop dressed in a rape blossom /​ume vinaigrette. The sauce is chilled and very thick Outstanding in its balance. Very fresh tasting of Spring.
A Chinese cabbage soup follows. Thick, highly extracted pure flavor of Chinese cabbage. Thick on its own, with no cream. A croûton fried lightly in olive oil adds richness. Ground black pepper and salt, the only seasoning.
Palette sufficiently whetted, enter the fugu sashimi. Take a piece of translucent fugu, pinch thinly julienned leek, a bit of steamed monk fish liver, then a dip in the home made ponzu sauce accented by supercharged citrus aromas and tart flavor of kabosu, finely diced leek and spicy shishimi infused grated daikon and enjoy. The supporting flavors greatly accentuate the texture and natural sweetness of the fugu. The spice adds to the numbing sensation from the residual toxin.
Fugu shirako, with its consistency of a roasted marshmallow, aggressively salted on the outside, wonderful creamy goodness on the inside as the roe burst forward. Excellent oceanic finish that goes on and on. The essence of fugu.
Teriyaki fugu follows. Boneless with a chewy texture. The earthy flavor of the soy blends well with the oceanic finish. The chewy texture is further showcased.
Deep fried fugu, with its ultra crispy coating that doesn’t lose it’s crunch contrasts beautifully with the über rich, gelatinous fish. A squeeze of kobosu equals perfection. Using one’s fingers, to break apart the bones and pick off every piece of flesh makes for greater enjoyment.
The fugu hotpot follows. Two separate batches. The first with the bones and spine, the second featuring the skin, fin, and tail. Simple, austere broth, Chinese cabbage, leek, shitake mushroom, carrots, chrysanthemum leaves all support the gentle flavor of the fugu.
Finally, the fugu zosui. INCREDIBLE!!! Gelatin rich, highly concentrated fugu broth from the hotpot is mixed with rice. Very creamy with the heavy scent of fugu. Fully charged sweetness and a very clean finish. Everything all the previous courses hinted to about the fish. Add the house made fugu stock jelly for saltiness and bites of Japanese pickles to brighten the palette between bites; outstanding.
The finishing dessert of a mochi stuffed with azuki and mascarpone cheese is the perfect ending to the meal. Not sweet, a hint of salinity.
Excellent sake list with very well chosen pairings. Different glassware and serving vessels for each to heighten the flavor and aromas.
Flawless Japanese service. Very little English spoken. 13 seats in private tatami rooms, five additional seats at the bar where you can watch the chef prepare each course. Three month advance reservation a must. See website for cancellation policy.
Business card earned. The total cost for the entire experience for two JPY 85,000 inclusive of service. The company and memory, priceless. Bucket list item; check.