En

90%
Solid kaiseki restaurant in a more intimate setting.
***
Came here for lunch with a group, Oct 2014.
En, or 円 seems to be a smaller family owned Japanese restaurant right next to the Kitakamakura train station around the Kamakura area in Japan. For those familiar with the big buddha or Daibutsu attraction from the Kamakura area, this isn’t too far away. Our party had lunch here before we were on our way to visit the Daibutsu.
This style of cooking here seems to be a more minimalist, yet very well balanced type of Japanese cooking. I find that the cooking has a more rustic character with more subtle flavors. In terms of ingredients used, there didn’t seem to lot of expensive delicacies, perhaps save for Amadai fish. However much of the fish, vegetables, and pickles were very much first rate. There did not seem to be much of meats served.
Much of the items appear more simple at glance, but the execution is precise and easy to take for granted. Although there may be a la carte choices, we went with one of their longer kaiseki or tasting menus. The cooking may not be easy to fully appreciate, but I found that it was no challenge to enjoy.
Prices are quite affordable. The more basic kaiseki courses start off around 3,500 Yen or around USD$ 30 (as of exchange rates in late 2014). The more elaborate kaiseki course we had was 8,000 Yen or around USD$ 75. Certain diners may be interested to know that this place held two michelin stars around 2012, although I’m uncertain if such still is the case.
Reservations ahead of time are essential. They make not offer kaiseki courses without at least a day’s notice if not more. We were able to ask our hotel concierge to make a reservation here.
As I did not manage to take notes during my dinner, I don’t feel entirely confident I can provide an accurate course to course description and rating. I also don’t think this is a cuisine I understand entirely to rate things. Instead, I’ll offer more memorable highlights. I will say the cooking was very consistent and there was no issues in execution. The food is lighter. You might not leave stuffed, but its a satisfying culinary experience.
We had maybe ten or so courses in our lunch. Some of the more notable positives was a white sesame paste over tofu with persimmon, green grape, and mushrooms. It was a great starter, resembling more of dessert and a vibrant way to start the meal.
There was a simple salmon roe with a light smoky and sweet dashi with shoyu clear broth that paired clean bright sweet flavors in a manner that was elegant, simple, and delicious.
The amadai fish and fishcake with bitter zucchini over light sweet broth, blended well with the sweeter fish and worked well with its soft, delicious fishiness, while contrasting effectively against the more aggressive bitter notes of the zucchini. It managed to be both subtle and aggressive in way that ive yet to sample elsewhere.
I had slightly mixed feelings about the gluten had mellow earthy and softly sweet flavor with nice tender, chewy texture. I found it to be odd and more interesting than enjoyable, but certainly far from terrible. The roots and broth surrounding it were simple and delicious.
The tempura had the softest, most delicate batter with very vibrant shrimp and a very sweet, rich, crunchy, subtly fishier shrimp head. Although the effect wasn’t aggressive. It was delicious in an understated manner.
I loved the pickles. They were complex in their combination of softer sweet, tart, bitter, and plum tones, yet all comfortable, hearty, and delicious. Having it over a bowl of steamed white rice and a good bitter, aromatic tea before dessert was most soothing experience.
Much of the nuances were easy to take for granted in this meal. Its engaging to think about the food, yet delicious and comfortable if you don’t. Nonetheless, I highly recommend considering giving the small meticulous details in the food some thought.
Service is good. I found things to be a little overbearing at times, but the staff were genuinely warm and mostly attentive throughout until the place became busier. The ambiance is cozy and comfortable. Try to get a seat overlooking the small outdoor pond if you can.
Highly recommended. This is the best of it’s kind I’ve experienced so far. Its a great deal too considering the more modest price.