Overview

Over the past few years, traditional Italian eating and drinking habits have been usurped in Florence by the appearance of hybrid eateries that combine a restaurant, pizzeria and wine bar under a single roof. The classic trattoria still exists, but if you are looking for the genuine article, unsullied by the ubiquitous menu turistico and filled with locals, it is increasingly hard to find. One such place, though, is family-​run Da Ruggiero (via Senese 89, 055 220 542, closed Tue & Wed), even if it is a little out of the way. For refreshingly unpretentious food in sophisticated surroundings right on the Arno, try Ristorante San Jacopo (Borgo San Jacopo 62, 055 281 661, closed Tue); if you’re lucky, you will be given one of the tables on the tiny terrace. For an alternative riverside setting (without a terrace), try Targa (lungarno C Colombo 7, 055 677 377, closed Sun), where a warmly lit wood and glass interior provides a relaxed background for creative versions of Tuscan classics. Olio e Convivium (via Santo Spirito 4 (055 265 8198,
) has two cosy restaurant rooms and dishes like taglierini with lobster, broad bean and pecorino risotto, and roast pork with prunes. For Florence’s best bargain meal visit Salumeria, Vini, Trattoria (via Ghibellina 27, 055 679 390, kitchen closed on Sat & Sun), which is a wonderfully old-​fashioned cross between a grocer’s shop, a wine bar and a trattoria.
Florence is also full of wine bars (enoteche), where you can sample by the glass, buy by the bottle and enjoy a snack or full meal. One of the best is Fuoriporta (via Monti alle Croci 10, 055 234 2483). The choice of wines is formidable and the food is good too.
Not to be off putting but worthwhile advice, watch out for pick pockets as they abound and not a day goes by without a tourist becoming a victim however do enjoy this wonderful city.