Hamnavoe Restaurant

Considering the remote location on Orkney in the Northern Hebirdes, Hamnavoe does a good job of moderate to fine dining. It is set in one of the older homes on the main street of Stromness (which, by the way, looks like a 300-​year old North Sea fishing village designed by Disney, except it really is a a North Sea fishing village where 300 year-​old buildings are the norm).
Back to the restaurant — After two weeks in Scotland — being beaten down by deep fried stuff, no greens and just plain bland food — I was the perfect recipient for the well-​prepared, thoughtful menu of the Hamnavoe. The service was good and the menu featured moderate-​to-​fine dining style cuisine using a large number of local ingredients.
The high points — Good and attentive service (young people doing their best to manage 20 pieces of cutlery per diner); a good wine list — not huge but adequate for most tastes and budgets; and the appetizers.
My husband and I shared a crab gratin that was one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. Plus, sharing was necessary because it was so friggin’ huge. The gratin and salad and wine would have done the both of us quite nicely, I think. We also had the seafood chowder which, had I not tried to gratin, I would also be considering as a peak food experience. Creamy and full of seafood but also lots of nice vegetables and herbs to deliver a lot of texture and flavour.
No serious downers at HR but unfortunately the mains were just so-​so. My duck breast had a nice fruity sauce but it was a bit tough and not remarkable. My husband’s cod had a very nice sauce (peppercorn I think?) but the fish itself was a bit overcooked making the texture too soft. Better to have stuck with the appetizers, I think. Also, the bread on table could have been a touch fresher.
Husband had a pretty good chocolate terrine for dessert.
Overall we felt it was a satisfying dining experience and a menu with some definite ‘10s’.