Burlington’s Restaurant

We had a night booked at the Beech Hill Hotel and had planned to head into town for dinner. Alas, fate intervened and we found ourselves too exhausted to get back in the car, so we pushed our hotel-​restaurant misgivings to one side and booked a table at Burlington’s.
The food more than held its own. A decadent seafood selection (smoked, fried, steamed and otherwise), and tender pork cheek with salty apple glaze were particular highlights. Our mains were very good but rather less exciting. The roast lamb seemed overcooked, and the chicken was, well, chicken — nothing out of the ordinary here — though the cauliflower mash and red cabbage were outstanding. The apricot crème brulée and pudding trio we shared for dessert were very tasty as well. Finally, the wine selection was decent, the service was prompt and the price (three courses for £32.95 per person) reasonable. So, why rate Burlington’s a mere 3?
We had been hoping for something quiet and cozy, but (for us) Burlington’s crossed the line into stuffy territory — inaudible music, whisper-​volume conversations, and a denim-​discouraging dress code — and this in a décor that could really use a post-​1980s rethought. Don’t get me wrong: I like a little peace and quiet, but this seemed excessive. Maybe it’s livelier during the on-​season, with a younger clientele? In any case, despite the lovely menu, if it’s a special experience you’re after, I can’t help but think that there are other options nearby that do this better.