Andon Ryokan

Not exactly «central» (what’s central in Tokyo anyway?), tucked away in a back alley in a pleasant neighbourhood in Ueno, this place is small but pretty.
It is a modern/​design version of a traditional Japanese inn (Ryokan).
The rooms, all with tatami mats, are cozy (albeit tiny), so are the spa area and the communal breakfast room.
Book in advance cause rooms go fast.

Sad to say, but there’s currently an extinction of ryokans taking place as we speak. LUCKILY, Andon Ryokan is the first designer hotel in Tokyo attempting to revive this dying tradition. If you don’t know what a ryokan is, it’s a traditional Japanese hotel with tatami mats, futons, and getas: the works, where you sleep on the floor, much like the conventional Japanese lifestyle.
If you’re gonna do something, you should do it right. Andon Ryokan offers the authenticity most travelers seek. And don’t worry, the futons themselves are incredibly thick, they weren’t much different from my mattress at home. My pikachu plush I bought from the Pokemon Center seemed to enjoy it.
If you find yourself with extra downtime, the hotel itself has a range of cultural activities to participate in. As I was checking in, there was a couple enjoying a tea ceremony. If only I had checked in an hour earlier, than that could’ve been me. The ceremony was actually taped and uploaded on youtube. Unfortunately, I’m not in it, but just know my presence was there.
Side note: That video was edited and uploaded within 4 hours of taping. Gives you a sense of Japan’s work ethic.
Anyways, the activities mentioned include tea ceremonies, a tour of a sake brewery, and (I think) indigo dyeing. There’s also a jacuzzi you can reserve for free on your downtime. You’re on vacation, treat yourself. The hotel is littered with historical paraphernalia that I’m a little too uncultured to really appreciate but they’re there.
Some other important information include:
I. An 8 minute walk from the Hibiki Line
II. The workers are extremely proficient in English
a. Some of the more meaningful conversations I had in Japan was with the younger female employee.
b. The barbecue restaurant she recommended (that’s walking distance) was one of my favorite places throughout my entire trip: Ushitora.
III. The bathroom facilities are shared
a. The shower is soundproof (for people who enjoy listening to music, like me)
I’m bad with conclusions. Good-​bye.

Absolutely lovely, cool, inviting, and relaxing.
The exterior is cool and sleek, there are 5 floors (3 for rooms, 1 for the spa, and 1 for laundry) and there are beautiful artifacts and pieces of art everywhere. We are staying in a 4.5 tatami room, roughly the width of a queen size bed and about twice as deep. Certainly different from western sized hotels, however my husband and I are embracing the adventure and are enjoying it! Showers and toilets are communal but not limited (there’s several on the premises) and are very clean.
They provide you with soft geta-​like sandals to wear around the ryokan, and you can borrow a yukata to wear while you’re here for free! Way cool.
There’s also free tea and snacks downstairs as well as some beer for sale (as well as a few vending machines downstairs and a 7 Eleven near by!), as well as recommendations on places nearby to eat (we had the udon place a few doors down… It was bomb!) which is really nice.
The bath is first-​come-​first-​served done via sign up sheet, also very clean and pleasant. People are quiet and respectful, a really lovely way to spend a few days in Tokyo.
It’s our first night here of three and I am so happy we are staying here!

It comes as a great surprise that I am the first person to write a review for Andon Ryokan. This place is a hidden gem and thoroughly deserves all the positive attention it can get.
The owner, Toshiko-​san, has a wonderful eye for design, and with the assistance of an architect, has created a lovely, comfortable blend of traditional and Modern space. In true Japanese style, the place is compact and uses its space well. It doesn’t feel cramped, but just right. The rooms are cozy. The futons comfortable.
Andon Ryokan has been featured in Ulf Meyer’s book, Architectural Guide: Tokyo.
The toilet facilities, like many places, are shared. The word ‘clean’ is ubiquitous with Japanese, I’m learning, and Andon fits firmly in this norm. Like many places, they provide a free toothbrush and other necessities you might have forgotten.
You will want to reserve their private hot bath, or jacuzzi, while you are staying there. It is well worth it, and it’s popular. We were able to reserve it every day, but not always at a convenient time for us due to its popularity. It’s a fun, quiet space to relax in. I love the tiled mural there.
The staff is very friendly, and immediately you feel you are among friends. Toshi-​san and one of her staff live in an abatement, which is part of the ryokan space.
Perhaps a little too dark for me. I prefer a brightly light place. Many mornings when you awake, you may find Toshi-​san greeting you at the front desk or from the small kitchen area ready to take your breakfast order, which she might prepare. The breakfast is good, and quite a bit of food depending on what you order. It’s a truly Western style meal.
They have free wifi and a couple of laptops if you need to use one.
If you have time, join one of their free evening classes. We had time to participate in their Japanese language class. We’ve been studying Japanese, so much of this was review, but we definitely learned new words and some grammar, too. During our stay, they also had classes in sushi and miso cooking, origami making, sake tasting tour and a traditional tea ceremony.