Paradigm – The Test Kitchen

The names Kurtis Jantz, Chad Galliano and Fabian di Paolo belong in the local household lexicon as much as familiar names Michy’s, Eismann, Schwartz and even the seemingly phoenix-​like Norman van Aiken. The Paradigm Test Kitchen provided me with a dining experience (and that is exactly what it was) unlike any other I have enjoyed in Miami. Every Friday they prepare a 10 course tasting menu for a small group of individuals. The «Test Kitchen» idea comes from the fact that they are trying new techniques in an attempt to discover ways to better their food and repertoire. Experiments range from scientific (solidifying liquids, liquefying solids, globalization, foams, and on), cooking methods, pairing and perfecting flavors. Though you may see similar ideas week to week, the flavors change and evolve at each meeting. To give you an idea, last Friday began with an oyster shot. The shooter consisted of a light rose water gel, watermelon and strawberry juice and a smoked salt at the tail end, served with a side of grilled strawberry. The flavors fireworked over our tongues, layer after layer until the salt hits at the end and the whole shooter just marries together into a different entity altogether.
Before each dish one of the chefs comes out to explain their concept behind the dish, how the concept actually developed, their approach and execution. They invite you to taste individual components as they explain them, bring out samples from the kitchen that illustrate part of the process and invite any questions you may have. The pastry chef even went so far as to alter one flavor in the desserts (a colada jelly) to reflect our Cuban background. And yes, desserts, while creative, do not crash and burn as so often happens when things get fancy. In fact, while I emphasize the cerebral, academic aspect to our meal, the food had its soul and we left happy and satisfied.
Service to complement the food was excellent. We received new silverware for each of the 10 dishes, our water and wine glasses were continually full, and servers and the maître d’ all made sure we were happy with everything. The restaurant embraces the locavore philosophy and acquire any available ingredients locally and the incredible flavors in the produce really show.
Paradigm is not for everybody. At $ 85 a person, it probably will not be a Monthly event for most of us. However, if you are familiar with the names of Michy and Norman and the others, you have likely paid that and far more for a meal. I promise that if you are an adventurous eater, you will enjoy their creative cuisine. I did not think I would like their foams or gels or half their ‘molecular’ items. I left appreciating and enjoying the whole approach. If you enjoy how flavors meld together, whether it from pairing wine with food, or food alone, you will enjoy it. If you ever wanted to feel like you were a judge on Iron Chef or similar, you will absolutely enjoy the food, presentation and hands on time with the chefs.
Prepare yourselves for a thoughtful, fun, excellent meal unparalleled in Miami. I hope everybody makes it a goal to hit this place once each year. Paradigm, and really Neomi’s deserves a full house every weekend.
To follow Chef Galliano’s blog on the restaurant, go to:
http://chadzilla/typepad.com
(The foie ‘surf & turf’ was one of our dishes)