La Frontera

Terrific little Salvadoran place in Day Square, Eastie, with an especially noteworthy sopa de mariscos (shellfish stew).
An old adage says, «Never eat at a place called ‘Mom’s,’ «which of course is not a snipe at actual mothers, but the folly of marketing a restaurant as somehow capable of channeling the love, care, and multi-​generational lore that the ideal of mom’s cooking represents. Now, if you have an actual somebody’s-mom in your kitchen, making food to order with skill and respect for ancestral traditions, you may be onto something wonderful. That’s what I see going on at La Frontera, a humble Eastie storefront doing a long menu of Salvadoran and Mexican dishes, plus a few Yanqui offerings.
Pupusas are typically a leading quality indicator at such places, and La Frontera’s are extraordinary: handmade and griddle-​crisped, boasting real corn flavor. They feature copious options for the expected fillings: mashed black beans and cheese ($ 2) or minced chicharrón and cheese ($ 2). On the not-​so-​expected side are such fillings as zucchini ($ 2) or tilapia ($ 2), plus quality curtido (vinegary slaw) for topping. Salvadoran-​style tacos ($ 2) are overstuffed with fine fillings of chicken, shredded roast beef, or diced beef tongue. Pollo estilo campero ($ 9) is a superb plate of fried chicken in a thick, crunchy batter, plus rice, salad, and tortillas on the side.
But the one essential dish here is sopa de mariscos ($ 19), an enormous shellfish stew with half a small Maine lobster, half a big Jonah crab, three cherrystone clams, a few big shrimp, and a lot of sliced squid and tiny shrimp. This bounty sits in a golden broth based on shellfish stock, cream, and garlic, fantastic by itself, and loaded with broccoli, bell pepper, green beans, aromatics, and Asian vegetables (probably frozen, a rare shortcut here). The supplied nutcracker helps deconstruct the big crustaceans. Sides of seasoned rice and thick tortillas complete this stunning one-​course meal.
The menu is diverse enough to please just about any crowd, with Salvadoran-​style Italian dishes, a dozen other seafood entrées, gringo-​friendly tortas, nachos, and burritos, even burgers, subs, pizza, and calzones. Breakfast plates are huge and traditional, like mild Salvadoran chorizo and eggs ($ 8) with sides of cheese, crema, fried sweet plantains, beans, avocado, and tortillas. Beverage options include tropical juices like coconut ($ 1.50) and marañon ($ 2), horchata ($ 2), and crisp Salvadoran lagers like Pilsener 100 ($ 3.50).
The ambiance is typically modest: 30 seats, a jukebox that ranges around Latin America, telenovelas on the TV. Chances are your server and cashier will be that serious mom of a chef, too. Her fresh, heartfelt cooking is exactly the reason that exploring unheralded Eastie holes-​in-​the-​wall like La Frontera can be so rewarding.