The über-traditional and simply marvellous Príncipe de Viana restaurant in Madrid is worth a visit, if anything because of the remarkable service — all women of an uncertain age dressed in pre-war attire. Established in 1963, and run by the legendary Oyarbide family. Will definitely go back to this one. No messing about with pretentious culinary nonsense. It’s classical Basque food, interpreted for gentle, sensitive palates, delicately presented with an emphasis on soft textures and subtle flavours. Very good.